Artisanal Cheese

When we began offering artisan cheese as an option for our WINE of the MONTH CLUB subscribers in November - 2005 - little did we realize how popular it would become. Cheese is now included with a very substantial number of our shipments. When we initially searched Ontario for small artisan and farmstead cheese-makers, we found a very passionate and committed group of craftspeople who were only too happy to supply us with some of their fine products.

Since that time, we've ventured outside Ontario and to date have shipped cheese selections from seven Canadian provinces. And we’re constantly seeking out new and different cheeses. From the get-go, we planned to have the cheese we offered tasted and reviewed by an acknowledged expert in the field - and the name that kept cropping up was Kathy Guidi's. We then partnered with Kathy (Artisan Cheese Marketing) - who has a significant history with all aspects of the cheese business in North America and Europe - to help assure our customers of the high quality of the cheese we sell, and to provide background knowledge that will enhance your enjoyment of the cheeses. Kathy’s reviews also provide you with suggested wine pairings for these cheeses. Check out her reviews (below) - that we'll augment each month.

If you want some of these cheeses by themselves, then you can buy an Artisanal Surprise Cheese Box which contain two current WINE of the MONTH CLUB cheese selections. Always different and always a surprise!

Cheese Reviews – by Kathy Guidi , of Artisan Cheese Marketing

These reviews and suggested wine pairings were prepared from samples of artisan and farmstead cheeses selected by WineryToHome.com for those subscribers of one of our WINE of the MONTH CLUB wine and cheese categories.

As each month’s artisanal cheese selections are made – their reviews will be posted here. As with our wine reviews – the reviewer’s initials and the date of their first tasting are shown. From time to time we do include in current shipments, popular cheeses that we've offered in the past.

Mamirolle
The milkfat content of this cheese is 23% and its moisture content 50%.

Mamirolle Fromagerie Eco-Delices Plessisville, Québec KG 5/09

The creamy texture and supple body of this pasteurized cow milk cheese develops with hand washing and turning on pine boards for 3-4 weeks. Flavour is milk and fruity when young, rich, grassy and aromatic when mature in 80-90 days. The farm where the cows pasture are across the road from the cheese factory. (say: mam ear oh) Suggested Wines: If the cheese is young, crisp fruity whites; if mature, lighter reds like baco or pinot noir. Late Harvest sweet wine is also excellent with this washed rind. Gewurztraminer, Merlot or rich Gamay

Lighthall Tomme
The milkfat content of this cheese is 27% and its moisture content 40%.

Lighthall Tomme 5th Town Artisan Cheese Prince Edward County, ON KG 9/09

Most people like fresh Chevre, but recognition for fine aged goat cheeses has just begun in North America. Fifth Town broke the ice first with Cape Vessey and now with Lighthall, a distinctive tomme with deep roast nut flavours encased in an earthy brushed rind. Cave aged for 2-4 months, I thought it was sheep milk from the colour, and from Spain for the complexity. First Place Aged Goat Cheese Category, 2009 American Cheese Society Competition. Congratulations 5th Town. Suggested Wines: Earthy reds with a bit of leather or vegetal notes.

Grey Owl
The milkfat content of this cheese is 24% and its moisture content 57%.

Grey Owl Fromagerie le Détour Notre-Dame-du-Lac, Québec KG 8/08

Fresh Chevre lovers rejoice! This is your next step in goat milk cheese appreciation! Soft, dense and luxuriously smooth white curd enrobed in a dark grey speckled vegetable ash rind. Made in the style of classic French Loire goat cheeses with flavours that are impeccably fresh yet incredibly complex, while the pleasant lemony tartness lingers. As it ages, a creamy layer develops beneath the rind. Suggested Wines: Dry and crisp or off-dry fruity whites.

Geai Bleu
The milkfat content of this cheese is 26% and its moisture content 47%.

Geai Bleu La Bergerie aux 4 Vents Sainte-Marie de Kent, NB KG 4/09

This raw cow milk blue cheese is exceptionally creamy and pleasingly piquant, exhibiting rich earthy flavours and the terroir influences of salty New Brunswick ocean air. Each cheese is hand pierced to allow blue vein growth, and then aged a minimum of 60 days. Named after the blue jays found on the farm. Say: jhae blue. Suggested Wines: fruity full body reds or sweet wines like Late Harvest or Icewine

Fleur en Lait
The milkfat content of this cheese is 31% and its moisture content 39%.

Fleur en Lait Glengarry Dairy Lancaster, ON KG 3/09

Introduced in Jan 2009, this washed rind cheese is made from pasteurized Ayershire cow milk giving the cheese a rich yellow colour and buttery texture. Rustic in aroma, with lovely bitter nut and savoury flavours that offer complexity and linger nicely. Suggested Wines: Spicy, off dry whites like Riesling or Gewürztraminer

Cape Vessey
The milkfat content of this cheese is 24% and its moisture content 54%.

Cape Vessey Fifth Town Artisan Cheese Prince Edward County, ON North America’s ‘Greenest’ Dairy KG 12/08

Sweet fresh pasteurized goat milk from Prince Edward County is the base for this semi-soft washed rind cheese aged 2-3 months in specially designed subterranean caves on this new LEED-certified cheesemaking facility. Aged goat cheeses are so interesting and just beginning to gain popularity in Canada. Cape Vessey won top honours for surface ripened goat cheese at the 2008 Royal Winter Fair with its white paste and pleasantly delicate flavour with just a hint of lemony goat. Suggested Wines: Crisp whites

Tomme de Grosse Île
The milkfat content is 30% and moisture content 45%.

Tomme de Grosse Île SCA L'Île-aux-Grues Île-aux-Grues, Québec KG 10/08

The distinctive flavour of this farmstead cheese hails from the thermalized milk of Brown Swiss cows fed exclusively on salty hay (le foin de batture) from the island’s shore. The ivory coloured creamy paste is encased in a tan, edible washed rind, delivering an earthy, salty grass aroma and musky mushroom flavour that unfolds in layers on the palate. The name was chosen as a remembrance of Grosse- Île being the last resting place for several thousand Irish immigrants. Suggested Wines: Full bodied white to earthy red depending on the age of the cheese.

Granello
The Paron Cheese Company is the oldest family-owned cheese company in Ontario (and perhaps Canada). It is still operated by the 2nd and 3rd generation of the founder who emigrated from Friuli in 1930. Originally, he sold to fellow Fruilians and over time – the reputation of the traditionally-made cheeses grew steadily. Today the company’s mantra is quality and not quantity and all Paron cheeses are made without preservatives or additives.

Granello Paron Cheese Company Hannon, Ontario KG 9/08

This zesty cross between Asiago and Parmesan, is firm with a waxy rind and clean, sharp fruity flavour that increases with age*. The grainy crystals (called ‘grana’) in the curd are characteristic of this style of cheese. Located just outside Hamilton, Paron has handcrafted Italian style cheeses from fresh pasteurized cow milk for over 75 years. Additional ‘home aging’ is not recommended. Once the cheese has been cut and vacuum packed it will not age properly. Suggested Wines: Full bodied reds.

Miranda
The milkfat content is 26% and the moisture content 45%.

Miranda Fromagerie Fritz Kaiser Noyan, Québec KG 8/08

This amazing pasteurized cow milk cheese has a rusty coloured rind covering the firm, dense, ivory paste. Flavours are richly nutty to pleasantly fruity, developed slowly with daily washing every few days during the 8 to 12 month curing period. In the Canadian French colony period, the town of Noyan was part of the region of Miranda, hence the cheese name. Winner Swiss Cheese Category - Canadian Cheese Grand Prix, 2006 Suggested Wines: Wine friendly to both red or white

Blackburn
The milkfat content of this cheese is 26% and its moisture content 39%.

Blackburn Fromagerie Blackburn Jonuière, Québec KG 6/08

Minimal aroma, but full raw cow milk flavour ranging from sour and salty to sharp with a lovely slightly bitter vegetal note (possibly nettle in the pasture?). The smooth texture and thin rind make Blackburn a unique cheese reminiscent of classic Swedish varieties. Suggested Wines: Off-dry fruity whites with full body.

Peau Rouge
The milkfat content is 25% and the moisture content 45%.

Peau Rouge Les Dependances du Manoir St-Hubert, Québec KG 4/08

The collaboration of cheesemaker and affineur practiced in Europe for centuries comes to life in this fantastic semi-soft washed rind cheese that is new in Ontario. Fromagerie Fritz Kaiser makes the cheese from pasteurized cow milk and Jean-Philippe Gosselin does the finishing (maturing in ideal conditions). The result is a rich nutty to fruity cheese with grassy notes and a lovely sprinkling of grana in the body. Who says you can’t recreate the full flavour of raw milk in a pasteurized cheese? Fritz Kaiser has done it again! Suggested Wines: Earthy to fruity medium reds…quite red wine friendly

Champagnole
The milkfat content is 23% and moisture content 54%.

Champagnole Fromages Chaput Chateauguay, Québec KG 5/08

The Chaput family is masterful in their raw goat milk cheese creations. This firm, washed rind with the vegetal, ochre coloured crust is aged six months. The fragrant aroma prepares the tastebuds for several layers of flavour from salty to grassy to lemon to nuts. Suggested Wines: Crisp whites or lighter body reds

Mont Jacob
The milkfat content is 28% and the moisture content 46%.

Mont Jacob Fromagerie Blackburn Jonquière, Québec KG 3/08

Made with pasteurized cow milk from the Saquenay Lac-St-Jean area, this semi-soft washed rind cheese has an open body, smooth texture and complex lingering buttery sweetness while being slightly tangy to sour on the finish with nuts and dry fruit to complete the flavour experience. Definitely a Five WOW cheese! Suggested Wines: Crisp fruity Riesling to light reds like Pinot Noir

Perron 2-Year Aged Cheddar
The milkfat content is 34% and the moisture content 39%.

Perron 2-Year Aged Cheddar Fromagerie Albert Perron Saint-Prime, Québec KG 3/08

Albert Perron is right when he says; “Cheesemaking is a wonderful trade … making high quality cheese is an art!” Perron cheddars are made in the traditional Canadian way from thermalized fresh milk, the cheddaring process and natural aging. The result is perfect cheddar: dense/closed body, smooth texture and a clean, sharp flavour with characteristic fruitiness. Suggested Wines: Fruit forward reds like Merlot or Cab Franc

Chocolate Cheese Fudge
This historic cheese and butter coop is located just south of Kincardine on Lake Huron. The milkfat content of this cheddar is 23% and its moisture content 38%.

Chocolate Cheese Fudge (cold pack cheese food) Pine River Cheese Ripley, ON KG 1/08

The farmers who own Pine River Cheese have delivered the milk since 1885. Cheese Fudge is cold pack cheese food, which is a long way of saying how it is made. Cheese is chopped up in a food processor and mixed with other ingredients (in this case dark cocoa) until spreadable. What could be better than cheese and dark chocolate in every morsel, except enjoying it with a rich red wine that has chocolate flavour notes! (Suggestion: surprise your Valentine and cut a cold chunk of the Cheese Fudge into a heart shape (of course you get to nibble on the trim). Suggested Wines: Meritage or deep red wine with chocolate notes, as well as Late Harvest or Icewine.

Smoked Extra Old Cheddar
The milkfat content of this cheddar is 32% and its moisture content 36%.

Smoked Extra Old Cheddar Pine River Cheese Ripley, ON KG 1/08

Pine River Cheese Ripley, ON Ontario Cheddar made from thermalized fresh cow milk is naturally aged 18-24 months. The cheese is then hickory smoked until a pleasant lingering balance of cheddar and smoke flavour is created and the exterior has a toasty caramel colour. The farmers who own Pine River Cheese have delivered the milk since 1885. Suggested Wines: Fruit forward reds or smooth oaked chardonnay

Blue Juliette
The milkfat content of this cheese is 27% and its moisture content ~ 50%.

Blue Juliette Salt Spring Island Cheese Salt Spring Island, BC KG 11/07

David Woods, creator of this cheese gets 10 out of 10 for this lovely soft disc of pasteurized goat milk curd. A thin bloomy rind laced with blue-grey mould to up the flavour a notch toward piquant without overpowering the delicate mushroom aroma and taste. Kept in proper conditions, Blue Juliette is best eaten near or just after the best before date. Suggested Wines: Fruity medium body reds like Gamay

Riopelle de l’ Îsle
The milkfat content of this cheese is 35% and its moisture content 50%.

Riopelle de l’ Îsle Fromagerie de l’Île-aux-Grues l'Île-aux-Grues, PQ KG 11/07

Exquisite cow milk triple crème in a bloomy rind. Melt in your mouth texture with flavours of cultured butter, mushroom and clotted crème. Named after the Québec painter Jean-Paul Riopelle who painted the picture on the label. Champion Soft Cheese Category - 2004 Canadian Cheese Grand Prix. Suggested Wines: Sparkling and crisp fruity varieties.

5 Year Orange Cheddar
This historic cheese and butter coop is located just south of Kincardine on Lake Huron. The milkfat content of this cheddar is 31% and its moisture content 36%.

5 Year Orange Cheddar Pine River Cheese & Butter Co-Op Ripley, Ontario KG 10/07

Ontario Cheesemakers since 1885, Pine River has a reputation for premium Cheddar. It’s made from fresh thermalized cow milk in the traditional manner and then naturally aged 5-years. The balanced sharp, clean flavour, and smooth texture are great, despite a body that is far too crumbly. Temper it to room temperature for full flavour and just like some wines … enjoy it now as the flavour will not get better. Suggested Wines: Lovely with fruit forward and full bodied red wines

PEI Clothbound Cheddar
The milkfat content is 32% and the moisture content 36%.

PEI Clothbound Cheddar Avonlea, Prince Edward Island KG 9/07

Originally Cheddar was made in wheel shapes wrap-ped in cheesecloth. Armand Bernard is reviving this tradition, following the style of great English farmstead Cheddars. Made from raw cow milk, then aged for 14 months in carefully monitored temperat-ure and humidity conditions. The aroma and flavour is uniquely PEI, reminiscent of fresh unwashed potatoes, yet both sweet and tangy on the finish. Suggested Wines: Quite wine friendly, pairs well with full body, oaked Chardonnay to earthy lighter reds like Pinot Noir.

Tomme de Gaston
This cheese is from a recipe cheesemaker Richard Garner developed over time after tasting many French cheeses from the Basque region of the Pyrénées and it’s typical of fermier cheeses from that area. A traditional way of serving this cheese is with a not-too-sweet cherry compote. This cheese is approximately 6 months old. Its milkfat content is ~ 50% and its moisture content ~ 55%.

Tomme de Gaston Oxford Mills Creamery Oxford Mills, Ontario KG 5/07

This cheese has been top of my favourite list since discovering it last fall. This handcrafted raw sheep milk cheese is the colour of hay, firm yet smooth with an open (pinholes) body. The layers of flavour range from horseradish to citrus to the lovely barny of French mountain cheeses. Truly a world-class cheese. Suggested Wines: Wine friendly from spicy whites to earthy lighter reds.

Green Peppercorn
This cheesemaker located 30 minutes South of Winnipeg has been in continuous operation since 1936. It was originally started by a small group of dairy producers and prides itself on its record of award-winning cheeses. This cheese contains extremely expensive black truffles and its milkfat content is 29% and its moisture content 42%.

Green Peppercorn Bothwell Cheese Inc. New Bothwell, Manitoba KG 5/07

Flavoured cheeses are not usually my preference, but this peppered cheese from Manitoba uses high quality Madagascar green peppercorns to impart an exotic flavour to the basic brick/mild cheddar style cheese. Suggested Wines: Although Bothwell suggests white, the spiciness of the cheese complements reds with leathery, pepper notes, while the creaminess of the cheese reduces the tannins present in some young reds.

La Prairie
The milkfat content is 24% and the moisture content 53%.

La Prairie Fromagerie de L’Alpage Chateauguay, Québec KG 5/07

Lovely organic Camembert style cheese made from raw organic cow milk. A velvety bloomy rind surrounds the smooth, supple body. Lingering flavours are of milk, mushroom and turnip. Happy cows make great milk for cheese! Suggested Wines: Very wine friendly with crisp white or sparkling wines and fruity summer Rose

Empereur
The milkfat content is 24% and the moisture content 50%.

Empereur Fromagerie Fritz Kaiser Noyan, Québec KG 4/07

Kaiser (the cheesemaker’s name) is German for Emperor, hence the name for this velvety textured, pasteurized cow milk cheese. The tender mixed washed and bloomy rind contributes to the flavour is of grass and roasted hazelnut in the ivory coloured cheese, so do enjoy it! Suggested Wines: Whites with sweet, fruity finish like Riesling or Gewurtz, Icewine and even fruity light bodied reds.

Ermite
The milkfat content is 30% and the moisture content 44%.

Ermite Abbaye St-Benoît St-Benoît du Lac, Québec KG 4/07

Made by monks at the Abbey from pasteurized whole cow milk, this semi-soft blue is the younger ‘brother’ of Bleu Benedictin. With one-month age, the cheese will be a bit less creamy and have a more bold rather than complex flavour. Perfect for on steaks and burgers! Suggested Wines: Fruity medium body reds like Gamay

Ramembert
A small bloom ripened camembert style cheese with a delicate, fluffy white rind surrounding a smooth and luxurious ivory cream – with a fairly firm, piquant white centre. The aroma and flavour are mushroomy with hints of earthiness and grass. The cheese is at its best then the sides yield easily to pressure. Store in fridge when ripe and let it breathe (the wrapping paper does have air holes). If the cheese is still firm, keep a little longer or place overnight in a warmer area (15-17degrees). Milkfat content is 25% and moisture content is 25%.

Ramembert Ewenty Dairy Sheep Coop Conn, ON KG 4/07

‘Elegant’ best describes this miniature Camembert made from pasteurized sheep milk. (Note the clever play on the name of the cheese and the name of the company.) Best enjoyed at room temperature when the cheese is quite supple and flavours of mushroom and clotted cream linger. Suggested Wines: Sparkling and fruity, crisp whites.

Black Truffle
This cheesemaker located 30 minutes South of Winnipeg has been in continuous operation since 1936. It was originally started by a small group of dairy producers and prides itself on its record of award-winning cheeses. This cheese contains extremely expensive black truffles and its milkfat content is 29% and its moisture content 42%. Review – from independent expert Kathy Guidi, Artisan Cheese Marketing

Black Truffle Bothwell Cheese Inc New Bothwell, Man. KG 3/07

Truffles lovers rejoice! You are going to love this cheese delightfully seasoned with Italian black summer truffles. The cheese is creamy and mild letting the truffles lead the combination. Enjoy it ‘au natural’ or use for cooking! Suggested Wines: Whatever you prefer with Truffles … especially earthy red wines.

Soeur Angèle

Soeur Angèle Fromagerie Fritz Kaiser Noyan, Quebec KG 3/07

The blend of fresh pasteurized goat (40%) and cow (60%) milk gives this soft, bloomy rind cheese a distinctive flavour. Tender rind, ultra creamy with delicate notes of mushroom and citrus. Suggested Wines: Crisp light whites or sparkling

Serra
This cheese with its characteristic pinholes is a staple in Portuguese homes as an everyday table cheese – although it is unique in North America. The milkfat content is 25% and the moisture content 50%.

Serra Portuguese Cheese Company Toronto, Ontario KG 3/07

Mild with the salty tang typical of this traditional Portuguese style cheese (somewhat reminiscent of Italian Friulano) made in Toronto. Used as a table cheese when it is young and creamy, and as a grating cheese when aged and firmer. Suggested Wines: Full bodied whites or light reds

Fleurmier de Charlevoix
The milkfat content is 27% and the moisture content 54%.

Fleurmier de Charlevoix Laiterie Charlevoix Baie Saint-Paul, Québec KG 2/07

A tender, white bloomy rind protects the velvety textured, supple cheese paste exhibiting delectable musty mushroom aroma and taste. Extra milk fat and artisan crafting makes this double crème Camembert style cheese truly luscious (27% milk fat, pasteurized cow). Suggested Wines: Aromatic fruity, off-dry white wines like Riesling and Muscat

Thunder Oak Fenugreek Gouda
This cheesemaking family of Jacob and Margaret Schep still has relatives making cheese on the family farm in Holland – and Margaret’s mother was a World Champion cheesemaker in 1975. In 2002, Thunder Oak won the Dairy Farmers of Canada Grand Prix Award for the Best Firm Cheese. The milkfat content of this cheese is 28% and the moisture content 43%.

Thunder Oak Farmstead Gouda with Fenugreek Thunder Oak Cheese Farm Thunder Bay, Ontario KG 2/07

The combination of fine mild gouda and the unusual Asian spice Fenugreek raises the bar on flavoured cheese experience from every day ordinary to extraordinary. Of course it works mostly because cheesemaker Walter Schep adds the seeds with their complex citrus tang (normally a part of curry spice), at a precise moment in the cheesemaking process to wonderful Thunder Oak Gouda curd. Suggested Wines: Wine friendly for with crisp fruity whites or lighter reds

Sweet Provolone

This little known cheese maker has been producing specialty Italian cheeses for over 35 years. Cheeses range from fresh (eg – Scamorza) to those aged a year (eg - Aged Pepato). The milkfat content of this cheese is 24% and the moisture content 45%.

Sweet Provolone International Cheese Company Toronto, Ontario KG 2/07

This handcrafted pear shaped ‘sweet’ provolone with the waxy natural rind gets its name from the Italian word ‘dolce’ or mild. Even with only 2 months age this fine pasta filata provolone exhibits a tender curd and slightly sweet yet piquant taste. Suggested Wines: Ready for light to medium body balanced reds

biobio Organic Swiss
The milkfat content is ~ 27% and the moisture content ~ 40%.

biobio Organic Swiss Gattuso Organic Foods Montréal, Québec KG 1/07

Certified Organic by Quebec Vrai (OCQV), biobio Organic Swiss is made without rennet, using organic raw cow milk. Naturally aged 3 months to develop rich flavour notes of sweet milk and almond, this classic firm cheese is dotted with large eyes (holes). The organic milk is from family operated farms which favour the natural balance between land, water, plants, animals and humans through less intensive production methods, and in keeping with traditional ways. Suggested Wine: Crisp dry to fruity whites

Le Fetard
The milkfat content is ~ 28% and the moisture content ~ 46%.

Le Fetard Fromagerie du Champ a la Meule Notre-Dames-de-Lourdes, PQ KG 1/07

A ‘fetard’ is a person of high spirit or merrymaker. And so is this raw milk cheese crafted by expert Canadian cheesemaker Martin Guilbault, who washes the cheese with a local beer, La Maudite. Flavours of this semi-soft cheese range from milky and lactic to tangy with hints of bitterness (from the beer). Flavours become more prominent as the cheese matures. Suggested Wine: Depends on the age of the cheese … If young try a fruity white, if mature fruit forward reds.

Maple Smoked 2-yr Cheddar
This cheesemaker located 30 minutes South of Winnipeg has been in continuous operation since 1936. It was originally started by a small group of dairy producers and prides itself on its record of award-winning cheeses.

This cheese was smoked using a special technique developed by a chef and specialty cheesemaker – Jason Wortzman, who is now Bothwell’s Sales Director. Its milkfat content is ~ 32% and its moisture content ~ 37%.

Maple Smoked 2-yr Cheddar Bothwell Cheese New Bothwell, Manitoba KG 1/07

Premium white Canadian Cheddar from Manitoba is aged a minimum of 2 years, then naturally smoked by a chef using maple wood shavings, to create a creamy textured, smokey tasting cheddar with a pleasant lingering taste. The perfect balance in an all-Canadian flavour tradition! Suggested Wines: Big fruit forward reds like Meritage.

Clandestin Fromagerie Le Detour Ginette Begin & Mario Quiron Québec KG 12/06

Definitely a 5 star cheese experience! This velvety textured handcrafted masterpiece is made from a blend of half sheep and half cow milk (both pasteurized). Grassy flavours of straw and butter fill the mouth with just a touch of saltiness. The wheel is thin, so the gentle flavoured rind contributes like a soft crust to the cheese, and is a treat to enjoy. Reminiscent of French Reblochon! Suggested Wines: Aromatic fruity, off-dry white wines like Pinot Gris and Riesling as well as sparkling wine.

Le Ciel de Charlevoix La Maison d’affinage Maurice Dufour Baie-St-Paul, Québec KG 12/06

Created in 2000, with a name inspired by the skies of the Charlevoix. This artisanal raw cow milk blue cheese has a gray natural rind and is aged 60 days to develop complexity. Musty mushroom aroma, ultra-creamy texture and full, lingering, blue flavour with hints of salt, define this cheese. Suggested Wines: Sweet wines and fruity, bigger reds like Cab Franc, Meritage or Cab Sauvignon

Bouq Emissaire Les Dependances Du Manoir St-Hubert, Québec KG 11/06

A thick, luxuriously smooth soft goat cheese encased in a bloomy rind. The thin ash layer gives the cheese a most interesting appearance and functionally slows down acid production as the cheese matures. The exquisite citrusy tang of goat milk makes your mouth water and long for more. Hand crafted from raw milk by the legendary goat cheese maker Patrick Chaput for distribution by Les Dependances. Suggested Wines: White, fruity off-dry Riesling styles or Sauvignon Blanc

Empire 4-yr Cheddar Empire Cheese Company, Campbellford, ON KG 11/06

Traditional cheesemaking makes this aged cheddar special! (e.g. using fresh milk and natural rennet) The aroma is milky, the body dense, the texture creamier than the age suggests, yet exibiting the typical graininess of a 4-year. The flavour is extra sharp with a touch of fruitiness. The Dairy farmers who produce the milk, own Empire Cheese. They make a variety of cheddars, most sold through the factory store. Suggested Wines: Fruity full body reds like Cab Franc

I am sorry to say not all cheese is created equal. This month we have fine examples of three common cheese varieties. The cheeses are ‘fine’ because of the cheesemaker’s craftsmanship, and decisions like level of milk fat, size/format, and/or milk processing (raw or thermalized). Investing in quality translates to fine subtleties that allow some cheeses stand out from others.

Mini Gouda That Dutchman’s Farm Upper Economy, NS KG 10/06

The 1 kg, small wheel format of this fine gouda allows the cheese to develop rich sweet, nutty to savoury flavours and smooth body in only 3 months, (sooner than larger wheels). Plus, this handcrafted Gouda utilizes thermalized milk (aka not fully pasteurized), thus retaining much of the flavour of raw milk. Suggested Wines: Full flavoured/bodied white like Chardonnay, to lighter earthier reds like Pinot Noir.

Biobio Sharp Organic Cheddar Gattuso Organic Foods Montréal Québec KG 10/06

Certified Organic by Quebec Vrai (OCQV), this Organic Cheddar is made using organic raw milk and is rennet-free. It is then naturally aged for a year to fully develop the classic fruity, sharp cheddar taste. The milk comes from family operated farms. The pastures the cows graze in, the fodder and grains they are fed, are free of synthetic pesticides, fertilizers and GMO’s. Suggested Wines: Fruity red wines will compliment the fruitiness of the cheese.

What the rind is washed with greatly influences the flavour of a washed rind cheese. Demonstrate this to yourself with our first two selections this month; one is washed with cider, the other with beer. And while you are at it, celebrate apple season with crisp apples and a remarkable goat cheddar.

Delice des Appalaches Fromagerie Eco-Delices Plessisville, Québec KG 9/06

This artisan delicacy achieves its lingering ripe apple fruit flavour and creamy semi-soft body, by maturing the cheese on pine boards after daily turning and hand washing with Quebec apple ice cider for 4-6 weeks. (say: delees dez appel ahsh) Suggested Wine: Light fruity white wines like Riesling and Muscat, a lovely match with Icewine too.

Le Grand Chouffe Fromagerie Champêtre Repentigny, Québec KG 9/06

The unique flavour of this semi-soft cheese is achieved by hand washing the rind several times with La Chouffe Belgian Beer. Delicate flavours of roast hazelnut and wild mushroom compliment the yeasty aroma of beer. ‘Chouffe’ means dwarf, hence the little fellow on the label. Suggested Wine: Surprisingly wine friendly from Riesling to Pinot Noir.

Chevre Noir Fromagerie Tournevent Chesterville, Québec KG 9/06

Marvelous 100% goat (Chevre) milk cheddar protected in black (Noir) wax. Low temperature pasteurization of the milk and natural aging one year deliver a mature cheddar flavour with caramel butter accent and a bit of grain. Consistent winner of many Canadian and International Awards. Suggested Wine: Medium to Full bodied reds like Meritage, Cabernet Franc, or Baco Noir

Canadian cheesemakers demonstrate their artistry in the selections this August.

Alfred Le Fermier Fromagerie La Station de Compton Compton, Québec KG 8/06

Simon-Pierre Bolduc has created another masterpiece, named after his uncle. This firm, washed rind cheese is made from the raw organic milk of the family’s purebred Holsteins. Carefully aged a minimum of eight months, this ‘big brother’ to Comtomme has a savoury balance of roast hazelnut and herbal flavours with a bit of tingling effervescence in the finish. DO eat the rind; it is wonderfully flavourful. Suggested Wine: Begs for full Merlots or lighter Meritage wines, yet matches nicely with Late Harvest too.

Vigaroso Monforte Dairy Millbank, Ontario KG 8/06

The harmonious marriage of cheese and wine are superb in this new selection from cheesemaker Ruth Klahsen. She takes her fresco (young) sheep milk Toscano, soaks it in Pelee Island Baco Noir for 4 days and voila, Vigaroso is born. The beautiful deep purple exterior leads to an ivory cheese paste. The fruity, aromatic wine complementing, but not overpowering the delicately sweet, grassy cheese. Suggested Wine: Rose and crisp fruity whites (even sparkling) (Note: heavier reds tend to overpower the wine notes in the cheese)

Yes Virginia, you can make raw milk cheese in Canada! The only restriction is that they be aged a minimum of 60 days before sale. Your cheese adventure this July includes three fabulous raw milk varieties.

Comtomme Fromagerie La Station Compton, Québec KG 7/06

This savory semi-soft, washed rind cheese is made with the organic milk of purebred Holstein cows. A ruddy colour rind surrounds a rich ivory paste. The enticing aroma and complexity of milky, fruity and roasted nut flavours, signify raw milk has been used. Finalist, Washed Rind Category – 2006 Canadian Cheese Grand Prix Suggested Wine: Quite wine friendly, crisp to full whites or lighter fruity reds

Aged Farmstead Gouda Thunder Oak Cheese Thunder Bay, Ont. KG 7/06

The Schep family moved to Canada from Holland in 1981. They make eight varieties of Gouda cheese with the raw milk of Holstein cows from their farm. This rich, smooth textured cheese is aged to develop a tangy, fruity flavour with a slightly sweet finish. Suggested Wine: Full bodied whites or fruit forward reds.

Le Rassembleu Les Fromagiers de la Table Ronde, Québec KG 7/06

While most blue cheeses are semi-soft and creamy, Rassembleu is firm in body with a woodsy aroma and flavour from organic raw milk. The blue notes are subtle and lingering. Perfect for the person new to blue, yet a rare treat for the aficionado of blue. Suggested Wine: Sweet wines and bigger reds with low tannins

One of the best-kept secrets in Toronto is International Cheese Company in the Keele and St. Clair area. This gem of a cheese factory has been producing Italian specialty cheeses by hand for over 35 years. There is lovely retail store on premise if you want to explore some of the other varieties.

Scamorza International Cheese Co. Toronto, Ontario KG 6/06

Hanging the cheese curd in cloth by a string to drain the whey accounts for the unique shape of this traditional semi-soft Italian table cheese. The aroma and flavour are perfect for summer: light, slightly salty with a delicate sweet milk taste. The elastic texture softens with age and is typical of a pasta filata style cheese. Suggested Wine: crisp light and fruity whites like Muscat or Pinot Gris

Fillisberg International Cheese Co. Toronto, Ontario KG 6/06

Not even remotely Italian in style, the cheesemaker had a flash of creativity and made this is a very interesting cheese! Semi-soft, natural waxy but moist rind, light orange colour. The smoky aroma and pleasant flavour are reminiscent of breakfast bacon. The texture is a bit grainy like that of the British ‘crumblie’ cheeses. Definitely worth a try. Suggested Wine: Full bodied slightly sweet whites or lighter reds with some smoky tobacco qualities.

Aged Pepato International Cheese Co. Toronto, Ontario KG 6/06

This simple cooked Romanello cheese turns rich and mysterious with a few months age and the addition of peppercorns to the curd. Firm body, dry texture yet creamy with a lingering pronounced sharp taste and a final snap of spice. The natural waxy rind has less flavour. Add it to a soup or stew. Suggested Wine: Stellar with Pinot Noir or full body reds

May's selections feature old and new Ontario artisan cheesemakers from the Niagara region. There are two selections from Paron Cheese, celebrating 75 years of making classic Italian style cheeses in 2006. And Upper Canada Cheese, whose cheeses debuted in late 2005. Both companies’ handcraft their products the old fashioned way, from fresh Ontario milk, bacteria culture, salt and enzymes.

Comfort Cream Upper Canada Cheese Co. Jordan Station, ON KG 5/06

This new Ontario artisan cheese is handcrafted from the milk of a single herd of Guernsey cows pastured on the Comfort Farm. The tender, white bloomy rind surrounds a velvety soft, honey coloured interior similar to double cream Brie. Aroma and flavours of cultured cream and earthy mushrooms linger nicely and become more pronounced as the cheese matures. For a full flavour experience, be sure to eat the rind. Suggested Wine: A very wine friendly cheese. As lovely with sparkling to full bodied whites as it is with light fruity reds.

Casada Paron Cheese Co. Hannon, ON KG 5/06

This delightful table cheese begs for Niagara strawberries along side it, to compliment the creamy, slightly sour to light nutty flavours. This cheese is best enjoyed fresh, as semi-soft cheeses tend to get bitter with age. Suggested Wine: Buttery low oak Chardonnay

Montasio Paron Cheese Co. Hannon, ON KG 5/06	A dolce (mild) version of a classic Italian specialty. The sweet, buttery to nutty flavours of this firm, rindless, ivory coloured cheese is a prelude to the deeper flavours the cheese achieves with even a few more weeks of maturity. At any age, Montasio is a welcome addition to summer cheese platters. Suggested Wine: Light floral whites or Roses or even a fruity Merlot if the cheese has some age on it.
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